The latest iteration of the Breitling Chronomat serves as a versatile sports timepiece, evoking the resurgence of mechanical timekeeping during the 1980s and highlighting Breitling’s pioneering role in chronographs. The distinctive Rouleaux bracelet not only imparts a stylish retro aesthetic to the wrist but also pays homage to the brand’s historical significance. Meanwhile, the state-of-the-art manufacture Caliber 01 not only upholds the brand’s tradition but also points towards the future of horology. Delve into our in-depth exploration of this exceptional timepiece, featuring a review from our March-April 2021 issue, where we also delve into the fascinating realm of replica watches.
This particular model holds a significant position within the rich history of Breitling, where distinct elements are reintroduced with a fresh perspective. In conjunction with its cutting-edge caliber, the Chronomat has transformed into a versatile sports watch that caters to a myriad of purposes.
Breitling’s decision to resurrect the Chronomat in 1984 was not merely a product relaunch but a bold statement, marking the revival of mechanical watches that had waned during the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s. The term “Chronomat,” originally a blend of “chronograph” and “mathematics,” took on new significance. The first two syllables retained their association with the stopwatch function, while the third syllable now alluded to “automatic,” emphasizing the mechanical automatic movement—a stark departure from the prevailing trend of quartz watches. The initial power for this revival came from the Valjoux Caliber 7750, launched in 1973 and later resumed by ETA, with specific modifications tailored for Breitling’s use.
It took another twenty-five years for Breitling to introduce its proprietary chronograph movement, Caliber 01, debuting in the prestigious Chronomat in 2009. This robust caliber, now a staple in various Breitling chronographs, has become an unsung hero, warranting a reminder of its exceptional features.
Caliber 01, a column-wheel chronograph with vertical coupling, incorporates modern technologies that have simplified the production of contemporary column wheels. The vertical coupling ensures a smooth initiation of the stopwatch function, eliminating the customary initial shudder of the elapsed-seconds hand. Unlike traditional systems with independent counters for elapsed hours, here the coupling establishes a direct connection to the counters for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours. The patented self-centering system of the heart lever for the zero-return function adds innovation, protecting the chronograph from potential damage due to faulty operation. This also applies to the calendar mechanism, designed to withstand user manipulation. The nearly instantaneous date change, exemplified by our test watch advancing to the new date approximately three minutes before midnight, showcases the reliability of this mechanism. Looking ahead to future GMT and world-time models, the date display’s fundamental design supports the option of resetting the date backward through the hand-setting function.
In the realm of replica Breitling watches, the allure of Breitling’s Chronomat extends beyond its originality, making it a sought-after piece among enthusiasts. The reintroduced elements and advanced technology encapsulate the essence of the brand, making the Chronomat a timeless choice, even in the world of replicas where craftsmanship and attention to detail are paramount. This combination of historical significance and modern innovation solidifies the Chronomat’s status as a horological masterpiece, echoing Breitling’s commitment to excellence.